I am enlisted in Bradt Guides for Iran for Alamu Valley since 2018.
Here is the full article written in the book:
Snow Cherries of Alamut
The region of Alamut, mostly known outside Iran as the ‘Valley of the Assassins’ for its close association with the Ismaili Assassins under the leadership of Hassan Sabbah, is today mostly an idyllic place for hiking and marvelling at the breathtaking scenery of the Alborz mountains. Encompassing fertile valleys, hillside villages and beautiful landscapes, the ‘eagle’s nest’, as the name Alamut translates, is alsofamous for its delicious cherries and is equally beautiful in summer and winter.
Lying approx. 60km northeast from Qazvin, Alamut is divided into Eastern and Western, with the valley in between two mountain ranges. There are altogether 500 small villages and settlements in the Alamut area and 200 of them are inhabited all year around. In winter the only road to Alamut is from Qazvin, but in summer it is even possible to drive all the way to the Caspian Sea through here. The whole of Alamut is home to the remains of approximately 50 castles, some of which are called meymun dezh, meaning ‘watchtowers’, but most are simply known as qaleh, or ‘fortress’ in Persian.
Rajai Dasht is the first village in the Alamut valley coming over the first mountain range from Qazvin and is approx. 55km away from the provincial capital. It is also the largest and the only village with a hospital around. It is here you would need to turn if travelling to Lambesar Castle (30km away) in Western Alamut. The remains of this Ismaili fortress are accessible all year around and would take about two hours to visit.
When driving straight through Rajai Dasht to Eastern Alamut, up to Moallem Qelayey, the first and only town here, the road goes down the valley. Here after Shahrak village it splits into two, namely to Garmarud to the Caspian Sea past Hotel Navizar ([Tel] 0285839426) 14km further on, the only hotel (in the classical meaning of the word) in Alamut, and towards Hassan Sabbah Fortress (Qaleh Hassan Sabbah; [Open] 08.00–17.00 daily; admission IRR150,000) further up. Also known as Dezh Alamut, the fortress is located apprx. 8km from the village of Shotorkhan, right above the village of Kazarkhan, which in the past would serve as the main supplier of food to the fortress and its dwellers. Although its remains are scarce, what is left does offer an interesting insight into the life of the Ismailis, who had lived here for about 170 years.
The access to the fortress is officially closed after 17.00, but there is no gate to actually prevent anyone from going up. The hiking path to the top is suitable for novices, but in winter can become slippery and it is important to exercise caution when walking up. The first structure by the main gate is a heavily restored guardian’s house and there is a guardian here at all times. Walking 100m beyond it, you reach a so-called asbi-khaneh or watch house tunnel carved by the Ismailis to have a view over Gazordasht and for a better defence of the fortress. Walking further up from here you reach a gate to the actual fortress. The gate had 6 watchtowers built during the Safavid period on top of the original Ismaili portal. Although heavy scaffolding makes it difficult to appreciate the extent of the inner rooms and spaces of the fortress, the 100m² courtyard with a mosque gives a good idea of the scale of this mountainous retreat. The height of the tallest remaining wall is 5m, but it is believed that the original had reached approx. 11m. There are also Safavid period stables built on top of the original Ismaili mosque, and water reservoirs.
Tours & where to stay
[T] Gate of Alamut ([Mob] 0912 7821562; www.gateofalamut.com; www.assassinsinalamut.com) Run by experienced and the only official guide in the area, Hosein Farhady ([Mob] 0912 7821562), the Gate of Alamut offers an extensive range of trip options, including camping, trekking and canoeing. While Hosein himself accompanies tourists on most routes, there is always another professional and certified guide present on more complex and intensive paths. Highly recommended.
[A] Alamut Eco Village (10 rooms; 45 beds) Shahrak village, [Tel] 028 58389266; [Mob] 910 0473103; [E-mail] shahraki_hossein@yahoo.com. Opened in 2014, this cosy and rustic guesthouse is probably the best accommodation option in the area. Atmospheric, rooms are traditionally decorated with locally make furniture pieces and grouped around an inner courtyard. The guesthouse also runs a traditional restaurant with freshly homemade food. Try local picked cherries. $$
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